Sunday, April 22, 2012

Travel Nomads Scholarship Entry (before editing...) 'Understanding culture through food.'


'Lets wait till he is done', the accountant mumbled as I looked at him from behind his computer, pretending to work. As the screen hid most of my face, I believe he could not see the semblance of exasperation that passed. 'Sure, I'll wait' I said, and walked down to the kitchen, one floor below. I could see the office boy whispering as I passed, but I overlooked it. I smiled at my colleague who was in the middle of his lunch, sitting down to keep him company. He offered me his lunch, which I refused politely. I could see the spice filled chicken on his side plate, and something that looked at fried fish wrapped in an oil-stained paper next to him. The cuisine was my favorite, and the colleague sitting opposite me was well aware of that. I could read the crease marks on his forehead at my refusal to eat. Thankfully, he would not pay much attention to it. I sat with him till he finished his lunch.

'Did you touch his food?' the office boy, rash as usual remarked, as he sat down next to me. 'What do u think?' I asked sharply. 'She's one of us, don’t bother her' the accountant smiled as he sat at the dining table. We all opened our lunch boxes and ate our vegetables and flat bread (roti sabzi) as usual. I tried my best to hide my discomfort,  while faintly remembering the day I had decided on my apartment, almost 15 months ago. My landlady was very sweet and the rent highly reasonable. As I was about to leave, Neelam aunty casually asked, 'what biraadari (community) are you from?' 'Christian', I said slowly, watching her expression change, not so subtly. 'There will be no non-vegetarian food in my house.' her voice quavered, though stern. I looked at her and said, 'I wont eat meat, but I eat eggs'. In the next few minutes, her son managed to convince her about me as I stood and watched.

 And so it was. Born and brought up in a city, I had never seen this. In school and in college we could sit together and eat whatever we wanted. Some of my best friends are vegetarians, as is my mother. But their choice in food was personal and we respected each other just the same. But it was here, in Sehore District (the place of my rural fieldwork) that I encountered religion in food. My initial reaction to these bifurcations was intrigue, as the anthropologist in me wanted to become part of this new culture. It was also a mark of respect from my colleagues' devotion to a non-violent religion that includes harming animals for food,  that kept me from eating meat at work. I usually reserved it for my lone dinner time. Even for dinner, I had to quietly go to one of the few dingy shops in the market, where cooked meat was served, trying not to look to conspicuous while doing it. Also with colleagues from different parts of the country and enjoyed eating meat like I did, on some occasions.

It is this reason why at the end of 2 years my colleague called me 'One of them'. I was pleased at that reference, for I had achieved that status. At the same time, it is saddening that food is something people can hold onto so strongly. Its actually the random insignificant details that remains etched in the minds of people, often gnawing out the respect and acceptance they have for each other, as time passes. That is not to say that they don’t help each other when time comes. More often than not they do. But it usually matters of food and drink that set them not only apart, but against one another. I hate to say that I see a hypocrite in me doing what the dominant culture of the area dictates, but it also satisfies me that I can blend in so well. I have been saved the out-of-city-girl gossip that would have usually followed me here, but subtly adjusting to their tastes, in more ways than one. What's more, I find the cuisine healthier. But through all of this, there lies the feeling of not being able to change mindsets around me, and bringing about acceptance without succumbing to change. All I can aim to achieve is to treat both with equal warmth, hoping that my presence acts as a balm for both sides.
I eat my lunch in silence, my thoughts my own bile.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Gripping the ends....





The journey, a seemingly long one is now suddenly at a close… for a long time, I couldn’t see it, but now it looms in front, like when you suddenly see a signboard saying you are a few yards away from your destination… it jerks you awake, and for a few minutes you try to decide whether you were better off knowing or not knowing… For the last few months I have been complaining in my head of the stagnant nature of the world around me, the work, the scenarios. And now that I know its going to end, I feel like I have not had enough. This feeling of not wanting to let go was increased since my transfer to head office. I had been asking for it, but I didn’t know how much I loved my district home till I started packing. My life had been shaped into that tiny world space of 10 square kilometers, Sehore, my world for two years. Its funny, but the way a place and people become home often goes unnoticed. But when you say goodbye to the milkman and the grocery shop owner, the chai waala and the office boy, it comes in a flash. Here is a comfort that is about to be broken.

I always felt I stood out there, a city person in a district. I looked and spoke differently, my mannerisms were different, and we both knew it. My lone walks after 8 and morning paper reading in the yard were regarded with amusement, even skeptism. But now that I leave, I realize that I had been accepted. Slowly.

In Bhopal life is queer. Like I should've been uprooted earlier, or not. I'm somewhere in between, trying to grasp the sparse threads that connect me to this place. Its like being woken up from the dream too soon, and made to keep awake before you can connect to reality. My sleep should've been broken only when I had to go home. But these two months will have to pass in a surreal state. I miss the regional office but don’t have the spare time to think about it. It’s a withering process, like the leaves turning color.

The next step is another question altogether. When you have your life meticulously planned out, and one thing doesn’t go as planned, it leaves you in a vacuum; not knowing what next or where next, before the step after that. On a stairwell, u can jump the missing level. in life, you just have to figure out something else. I know what else I can do, but the certainty of purpose is not the same. And the feeling of going wrong is more than that accompanied by the original decision…

Then again, good uncertainty is probably the best there is... A chance to do something unplanned may actually join the dots somewhere in the future...  And I guess it is important to live in uncertainty for a while, knowing and not knowing at the same time. Maybe the wheel of fortune isn't a bad idea after all...